Shower Pan Installation

Our clients often ask; " Why does a shower installation cost so much?" or " How long does it take for a normal installation? We decided to put this information on this site to illustrate how a typical shower installation process works for a proper Mud Bed shower pan. A shower remodel is usually a 10-12 day job not including glass. Anyone claiming they can install one quicker you should question the quality of workmanship. We install shower pans the correct way without cutting any corners or missing any details. The below shows how a shower pan should be installed here in Texas.

                                                            - Day One -

After the tear out of the old shower has been completed the framing can be done. This is a basic example of what we do for our shower installations. Pony walls , seat, shampoo boxes, or custom details that can also be incorporated into a shower.





The shower shown here has a floor area of about 3 feet by 4 feet. The 2" x 10"s were installed between the studs to act as a support (blocking) for the liner. The floor is reconstructed with 3/4" plywood over 2" x 10" joists.

            
Notice the curb for the shower is also framed at this time. Before installing the shower pan liner, it is important to build a "pre-sloped" mortar (mud) bed so that the liner when installed, will direct all moisture toward the drain's "weep holes
        
                
Before we begin building a shower pan, we install a slipsheet. Although we used roofing felt, We can use just about anything you want sheet of poly, or anything similar. Both the mesh and the roofing paper can now be stapled to the plywood.The mesh will allow the mortar mix to have some grab to the floor ensuring a solid bond and the tar paper will act as a "slip sheet" to isolate movement from the concrete or wood surface beneath the tile installation and to stop moisture from being sucked out of the mortar before cured.      
          
                     
Using a latex additive to create a mixture to build the pre-sloped slab for under the liner. Using water instead of additive for the mix is also acceptable. "Mortar Mix" seems to taper to 3/8" thickness around the drain better than regular "Sand Mix" .... but either is acceptable.  Because the mortar around the drain will be tapered fairly thin .... (about 3/8" thick), We like to use a latex additive instead of water. This almost doubles the compression strength of the mortar bed.

                              
First layer of Mud Bed pan. There are two layers to a quality pan. The idea is to create a slope from the outside perimeter of the shower pan to the drain allowing any moisture caught in the liner to flow unrestricted out through the weep holes of the drain. This process is overlooked and not many installers do this.

                  

                                                     We brought the mortar bed about 1-1/2" up on the outside perimeter.
                                           All the material in the bed needs to be "packed" together as much as possible.

                                             
                    A properly built mortar bed should be able to hold your weight without serious indentation immediately after the first layer is finished (but don't do it). The following day after it has hardened, it's still soft enough to be easily chipped or gouged with just about anything hard enough to do damage. This is a normal characteristic of a perfectly built mortar-bed.

                                                                                                                      

                                                                                    - Day Two -


The liner installation.The next day we begin installing the shower pan liner. We carefully fold excess material out of the way and staple ONLY the highest sections of the liner and only on the outside of the curb.


                                                       


             
                       

                     You'll notice we notched the liner material beside each bolt. These are the 3 areas in the drain
                  assembly where the "weep holes" are located. Removing the liner material creates a larger hole.


                                           
                           
                                                                                           The liner is completed.

                                

                           Now, Hardi Backer can be installed!  We NEVER use green board or sheet rock in any shower.

                          

The cement board has been installed leaving a gap between the bottom edge of the board and the liner. This will ensure there is no wicking of moisture up into the backer board. The lath is molded onto the curb and ONLY stapled on the outside area. Mortar when pushed against the inside section of lath will hold it into place. The mortar will also push firmly against the bottom edge of the cement board to secure it as well.

                            We generally leave as much as a 1/4" space between panels for taping and mudding

                                
      
For the top, or second layer of mud which is the slab the tile will be installed upon, Deck Mud is required. Deck mud although the same dry mix (4 or 5 parts sand to 1 part Portland cement) uses NO additive in the mix. Water is all that is required for a stable and workable mortar bed.

                           
The spacers around the drain are covering the weep holes so that mortar doesn't obstruct them. The little voids created by these spacers will allow moisture to quickly escape. It's important to have at least 1-1/4" of packed deck-mud around the drain, which means the outside perimeter will be thicker (and higher) to accommodate a positive slope. The spacers can be buried in this process.

                                      
         Because this is the finished slab which will support the floor tile, We use a level all along the outside screed.


                          

  We usually leave the edge of the drain trap slightly above the mud-bed .... about 1/8" for the tile. We scrape away a little more if needed using a tile as a guide before the bed completely sets. We can figure the height  by having the Drain Trap screwed down into the flange about 3 or more turns (depending on the thickness of your tile) and then after constructing your mortar bed we can un-screw it back up to accommodate the thickness of your tile and bond coat (thinset).

                          


                                                                                                                                  
                                                                                                Now the curb.
                           
                          
                    The curb slopes slightly into the shower. Basically ... when building a mortar bed curb you have the
        freedom to create whatever is required to accommodate the existing construction and size of tile you intend to use.


                          
                                                                                    The MUD bed is finished.
                                                                            
           
                                                                                  - Day 3 Three -

                         Now we install the Porcelain, Tile or Travertine!
                     
                               
                          
       
                                                             This is a quality shower pan installed